I write this from the Nordic Sea Hotel in Stockholm, a touristy hotel with a blue glassy sea theme and furnishings that make me feel as though I'm sleeping in an IKEA showroom. This hotel is also the home of the famed IceBar,a pricey tourist attraction bar made entirely of ice....even the glass your drink comes in. Stockholm is bustling and expensive. We'll explore the castles and Viking ship museum tomorrow, but for now, my friend, school mate and travelling companion, Andrew, and I are exhausted from the flight over from Dublin and are chilling out in the blue-walled, Swedish designed hotel room.
This has been the longest holiday I've taken in quite some time. We began with five days in the Swedish countryside. We stayed at a hotel run by a lovely Dutch couple who cooked us traditional Dutch food every night and basically gave us the run of the place since we were often the only guests there. Sweden was, on the whole, closed for the season. Their tourist season runs from June 21 (summer solstice) through August 15, when the kiddos return to the classrooms. We tried to visit Alfred Nobel's birthplace,...closed. Lacko Slott, a fabulous castle....also closed. We tried to find some traditional Swedish food......non-existent. All we found in most towns was pizza and kebab.
After our frustrations in Sweden, Ireland was a welcome change. The people were extraordinarily friendly and chatty (not so in Sweden) and prices were cheaper. The rental car however, had the steering wheel on the right side, and we were driving on the left side of very narrow, pot hole filled country roads with stone walls and hedges on either side. I should say, Andrew was driving, while I was sitting on the left hand passenger side being jostled by potholes and covering my face with my hands. We met Andrew's Parental Units in Waterville, a lovely seaside village on the southwest coast. They'd rented a spacious sunny cottage that served as home base for the four of us for over a week. I hiked on the Ring of Kerry, did the obligatory tourist shopping, walked on the beach, and went horseback riding on the beach with Andrew's mom, We stopped at the local butcher shop and picked up some cuts of beef and lamb as well as lamb stew meat and carrots, parsnips and potatoes, all with local sandy soil still clinging to the roots. A dry erase board announced that this week's beef came from the farm of John O'Connell ande was butcfhered on August 17. "We have an abattoire just upt the road" said the butcher when I asked about the locality of the meat. The meat and vegetables were all obviously quite local, yet there wasn't a single sign in the shop extolling the virtues of the slow-food movement or the environmental benefits of eating locally grown produce. Rather it seemed they were simply doing things the way they'd been done for years and years. .....and I'm posting this before it crashes again.